Stitches
I use USA terms, here is a key:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet (special, see below)
inc = single crochet increase
dec = invisible single crochet decrease
slp = slip stitch
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet (british: treble)
tp = triple crochet
bc = bobble stitch? I use my own version (mainly for eyes) scroll down for details.
Consult Youtube for how to make each of these kinds of stitches, if you don’t already know.
Stitches are done into both loops, unless otherwise stated.
The Amigurumi Single Crochet:
Many amigurumi makers use a modified version of the single crochet which is a bit denser and tighter. Instead of making two yarn-overs, your first yarn over is actually a yarn under. So the stitch works like this:
Insert hook. Yarn under, pull through. Yarn over, pull through both loops.
Modified Bobble:
It’s basically four double crochets in one stitch, however, you skip the final pull-through for each dc, then do one at the very end. Step by step:
(Yarn over. Insert hook. Yarn over, pull through. Yarn over, pull through first two)x4 Yarn over, pull through all loops. (There is no finishing sc or ch like some other puff stitches)
Amigrumi patterns are done in the round unless otherwise stated. However, I do sometimes use flat rows when color changes are involved, as this makes the color change look much cleaner. This involves starting a new row with a chain stitch, crocheting around, then joining the first and last stitches with a slip stitch. The chain stitch never counts as an actual stitch- instead, the first ch and final slp end up sort of being a seudo-sc together. If you are changing colors, you should change colors during the slip stitch.
Row pattern format
Rows are often written in this format:
(1sc, 1inc)x6 (18)
“x6” means to repeat the section before it 6 times. So, you will do “1sc, 1inc” 6 times, and then you will reach the end of the row. The number at the end refers to the total number of stitches in that row, once you are done. In this example, that row will have 18 stitches total, once you complete the row. Each iteration of “1sc, 1inc” contains 3 stitches, so 3 x 6 is 18.
Tying off
I recommend you chain once before you tie off, as this makes a tighter knot.
When closing off a round piece, there’s some fancy techniques you can use to close up the hole cleanly, but I’m pretty lazy. All I do is dec around until I have 6-8 stitches left, chain once as mentioned above, then cut the yarn. With the remaining tail I’ll sew into the back loop of each stitch and pull closed, tie a knot into the nearest crochet stitch, then hide the tail inside the piece.
Changing colors
I recommend you learn how to elegantly change colors between stitches. This is done by changing color partway through the previous stitch. Here is an example of how to change colors between two single crochet stitches- the first sc will be color A (the color you’ve been using), the second will be color B (the color you want to change to)
“Start with color A. Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook (your first sc). Insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Yarn over in color B and pull through both loops on the hook (your second sc)”
You can also find plenty of youtube tutorials for this.
Yarn choice
Okay, so my choice of yarn is really strange and stupid. I love to crochet tiny things with tiny yarn and tiny stitches, but I also hate the texture of most lace/fingering yarn. Instead, I start with medium weight 4-ply yarn (usually Red Heart Super Saver or Caron One Pound yarn), and then I unravel it into 4 separate strings. From there I’ll tie the strings together, wind it up into a ball, and hide the knots inside the amigurumi pieces as I go. It’s important to use sturdy yarn, as sometimes the strings fall apart if you pull on them too much.
I love how the final amigurumi feels at the end with these tiny, delicate stitches. I can’t explain it. I’m autistic and it’s just a Good Touch, lmao.
Also, since medium weight is the most popular yarn size, at least at my local craft stores, the color possibilities are almost endless.
All my patterns are written with this size of yarn in mind (and usually a 2.25mm hook). At 1/4th the size they tend to have 4x the stitches and will probably take 4x longer than you think they will. If you make these plushies with medium weight yarn you’ll wind up with some pretty large plushies. Which I guess isn’t a bad thing. Just be sure to buy a LOT of polyfil.